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Saturday, May 7, 2022

Walking Around Palermo (and This Time I Actually Go Into Places): Part Uno

The view of Chiesa di San Cataldo (with its three red domes) as seen from Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio

It's a rainy Saturday morning in Palermo. In fact, the forecast for my entire time here is rain. Not hard rain. That light, misty rain. I had one sunny day in Rome and if the forecast is to be believed, that will be the only sunny day of the trip.

So I grabbed my umbrella and my camera and went to grab a double espresso to fortify me for my walking tour of the historic core of Palermo

That's a whole lot of espresso that was downed before I got there. And that's a whole of plates and dishes to wash.

Caffeinated, I am now ready to walk.

Should I take a horse to continue on my journey? This is Pretoria Square, which I saw the other night. That means my first destination is close by.

And I spy three red domes.


The three red domes belong to Chiesa di San Cataldo, the Norman era Church of St. Catald. St. Catald is the patron saint of Sicilian Normans. Which probably leaves him with a lot of free time nowadays, as the last Norman left Sicily about 800 years ago.


The red domes are the signature of the joint. Let's have a look inside.


It is small and simple and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Admission was only three euros. It's worth paying a little for the upkeep of the place. The church was built in 1154. So it is definitely looking good for its age.


This is the view of what would be under two of the three red domes. Red domes apparently were a thing in Arab architecture back then. Maybe there are three as a reference to the holy trinity, which would make them less Arabic? You'd have to ask the architect. Of course, he shuffled off this mortal coil almost 900 years ago, so I don't think you'll be getting any answers from him.

Right across the plaza (piazza) (I should use the correct terminology since I am in Italy here) is Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio, which translates to St. Mary of the Admiral. This is a seafaring town after all. Always has been. It also is known as Chiesa della Martorana, or just plain Martorana.


Doesn't look like much from the outside does it? Kind of plain. Kind of boring. But just wait until you get inside.

Prepare to have your socks knocked off.


Socks. Knocked. Off. The pictures do not do Martorana justice. I am absolutely serious when I say that I believe that this is the most beautiful church interior I have ever seen.


Construction began in 1143. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015.


It looks like yards and yards of cameo jewelry.


There was a tour group inside, speaking Italian, but overall the interior was not crowded. You could actually just sit (or stand) and soak the place in.


Which I did.

Here's looking up at the single dome.


Just overwhelming. Bliss!


I could have spent all day there, but there was more Palermo to soak in.


The horses were ready. But, once again, I hoofed it on my own hooves.

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