The Vasa

This is the 17th Century warship the Vasa, the star attraction of the Vasa Museum

Today was to be a cold, wet and rainy day. What do you do when you're on vacation and it's cold, wet and rainy? Off to the museum!

But there was scenery to see en route to the museum. Such as the Oskarskyrkan, the Oscar Lutheran Church.

Who's the namesake Oscar? Don't know. Could be Oscar the Statuette, or Oscar Madison, or Oscar Mayer Weiner for all I know. I did not have time to find out because I wanted to be in the museum before the rains started.

From a distance, I thought this too was a church.

It was not. It is the Nordic Museum. But that's not the museum that is today's destination. Maybe tomorrow. Maybe next time in Stockholm. Time's a-wasting.

This is a view of the building across the Ladugårdslandsviken.

Easy for you to stay.

Once I cross the bridge and enter onto the island of Djurgården, I see:

Blå porten. Translation: the Blue Gate. This is the gateway to Lusthusportens park at the north end of Djurgården.

Shortly after entering through the Blue Gate, I saw a statue of man.

With a live bird on his head.

The bird is resting there as if it were part of the statue.

The statue doesn't mind.

But I'm not here for a walk in the park, as inviting as the park may be.

I'm here for a museum. But not the Nordic Museum.

If it doesn't look like a church, then it looks like the old Admin Building of some ultra-expensive East Coast private university, don't you think? The Nordic Museum is supposed to be worth visiting. The island of Djurgården is positively lousy with museums: Skansen, an open-air ethnographic museum that would be well worth visiting some non-rainy day; the Viking Museum, which really is just for children, and the must-to-avoid Abba The Museum. I love Abba. I respect Abba. But the museum is over-priced and allows no photography inside. Not. Worth it.

But you want to know what is totally worth it?

Yes. The Vasa Museum.

This is a museum dedicated to a war ship that sank 1300 meters into its maiden voyage when it was knocked over by a wind. Hurricane force winds off the Baltic? No. A light gale.

Front corner view of the Vasa

And that is worth a whole museum -- a whole immensely popular museum -- maybe the most popular museum in Stockholm -- why? 

Side view of the Vasa, with rigging

The Vasa was a warship built for the navy of Swden's greatest king, Gustavus Adolphus. It was the largest ship of its kind. You might even call it "titanic" (in size) (and in fate). Once outfitted with all the necessary military equipment to make it the most formidible warship in the Swedish navy, it became top heavy. It was so top heavy that, on August 10, 1628, on its maiden voyage, a light breeze caused it to topple over and sink to the depths of Stockholm's harbor, sailing a mere 1300 meters (less than a mile) from its dock.

And because it sank into the murky depths of the Baltic, it was preserved, relatively intact. Thus, we have an actual wooden warship from the early 17th Century that was almost perfectly preserved. This is not a replica based on plans and drawings. This is the actual ship.

And this is an actual anchor:

This is its actual bow:

This is an actual cannon that was on board.

The smaller, lighter brown ship is a miniature replica. But most of the rest of what it is this museum is real, pulled up from the depths of the Baltic with the Vasa.

Here is an interesting display of cannon balls from the Vasa:

According to the guide, with the spherical balls, aim for the hull. With the barbed balls, aim for the deck. With the chained-together balls, aim for the rigging. There was a science to the design of naval warfare cannon balls. I didn't know before today!

This is a primitive, wooden backgammon set pulled up with the ship:

No time for fun and games when your voyage last only 1300 meters!

This is clothing and other necessities from one of the sailors: 

And this is the view from the stern:

Apparently the low salinity of the Baltic waters aided the preservation of the Vasa as it sat at the bottom of the Baltic for about 330 years.

Let's go in for a closer look:

And even closer still:

Amazing detail on the decorative sculpture adorning what was an early 17th Century warship.

Here are some of the decorative sculptures from the Vasa painted like they would have looked for the duration of the Vasa's 1300 meter journey. The sculptures are not random. They are figures from antiquity, mythology (Roman and Norse), the Bible, and more.

Hercules:

The "Wild Man":

A sea god:

Gideon's Warriors. While this is ostensibly Biblical, KIng Gustav Adolphs would have appreciated the symbolism of the Biblical army to his military.

And, speaking of the Old Testament, here we have King David:

Emperor Titus of Rome:

And, of course, a Roman Warrior:

The statuary was not random. Every piece had a point.

Even the Lion:

Or, maybe, especially the lion.

My time at the Vasa was longer than the total length of time that it stayed afloat on its maiden voyage.

I was thinking of hitting the next-door Nordic Museum next:

But it was time for fika!

My walk to my now-favorite cafe and bakery was about as long as the distance sailed by the Vasa in its history. A little less than a mile.

I passed the interesting looking Royal Dramatic Theatre.

And Berzelii Park:

I wanted to visit this park to see this sculpture by notable Swedish sculptor Carl Milles.

Lekande björnar. Translation: Playing bears.

Soon my feet took me to the Vete-Katten cafe and bakery for my afternoon coffee break. I overdid it. But this could be my last fika in Stockholm as I leave tomorrow.

Clockwise from top left:  Coffee (can't have a coffee break without coffee) (even it is a lighter roast); kanelbullar (cinnamon roll); blåbär vanilj (a blueberry pastry with vanilla pastry cream inside), and, the star attraction of the fika all over Stockholm: the kardemummabullar (the cardamom bun). I know why the denizens of Stockholm pooh-pooh the cinnamon bun: the kardemummebullar is superior in every way. But the  blåbär vanilj might have been even better.

I rested up before my last supper in Stockholm proper. I will have one more night in Stockholm at the end of the trip, but I'll be staying at the airport as time will be tight. My overstretched stomach still recovering from my fika, I had a light supper:

A Bob's Hot Burger, with a side order of cheese fries, from the Gnarly Burger across the street. It's rainy and cold, so I didn't want to go far. And the Gnarly Burger has a burger named for me:  beef patty, pepper jack cheese, lettuce, onion, jalapenos, and a spicy mayo. It was quite good. The cheese fries came topped with cheese and jalapenos. Nachos, but only with french fries. The cheese fries had that liquid cheese found in ballpark nachos. So I had jalapenos on my burger and on my fries. Do jalapenos count as a vegetable? And to wash it down I had a Bailey's milkshake. The flavor was nice. but it was a bit on the thin for my tastes. I want my milkshakes a bit thicker.

I may have time for another museum tomorrow before I catch the ferry boat to my next destination. We'll see how much sleep I get tonight.