Armenia: The Land of "You Can't"

Whatever quibbles I am having with Armenia right now, the beauty of the architecture in Yerevan is not one.

My first impression of Armenia:  It's definitely not Georgia or Azerbaijan.

My flight left Tbilisi early in the morning.* It was a 30-minute flight to Yerevan, which meant it was still early morning when I arrived in Armenia. Armenia goes into the books as my 46th country visited. Things did not get off to a great start at the passport check. The woman saw the stamp in my passport indicating I recently had visited Azerbaijan. "Why did you visit Azerbaijan?" Tourism. "Do you have any friends in Azerbaijan?"

The hotel is beautiful. Could I get an early check in? I know I have no right to early check in, but I received a curt "Your room will be ready at 3:00 p.m." It was not even noon and it the hotel did not have luggage storage to leave my bags so I at least could explore the area.

I did abandon my bags enough to snap some pictures of the hotel exterior. And wander the interior.

The good news is that they did not make me wait the full amount of time until three o'clock. My room was ready for me to occupy at 2:50 p.m.

The room is large and has a view of a park.

After nearly two weeks in Azerbaijan and Georgia, I was thinking these were the two most friendly countries to which I have ever traveled, with warm, welcoming, helpful. Now that I am in Armenia, I can say without any hesitation that Azerbaijan and Georgia are the two most friendly, most welcoming countries to which I have ever traveled. I reserve the right to change my opinion once I gather more data, but my first impression is set in stone. It is set in the pink tuff stone of which so many buildings in the core of Armenia's capital have been built.

Refreshed by a nap -- I did not get much sleep the night before out of fear I would over-sleep and miss my plane (and be forced to spend more time in Tbilisi) (throw me in that briar patch, please) -- and not having eaten since a muffin at the Tbilisi airport early in the morning, I went searching for supper. Easier said than done.

Again, there is a very nice park right next to my hotel.

With street dogs and historic stones/stela.

And more modern stela:

Yerevan, Armenia's capital, is a beautiful city -- at least in the historic core in which I am staying -- with parks and fountains and greenery and building made of the same pink tuff stone.

This is Republic Square, the heart of Yerevan.

Pink tuff stone buildings and giant fountains:

I believe that building is the Marriott.

This is the building of the Government of the Republic of Armenia:

Again, the architecture and urban design in Yerevan is awesome.

This is the national museum:

I walked through Republic Square to get to the restaurant at which I intended to eat. I will not name it. (It was the Taverna Yerevan.) The restaurant was nearly empty. "Do you have a reservation?" No. "Then we can't seat you." They couldn't seat me in their empty restaurant. Tried another restaurant just down the street. The Sherep. I asked: "Can I eat here?" Answer: "Do you have a reservation?" No. "Sorry." At least the Sherep had the decency to say "sorry" and, at least, the restaurant was half full. Plenty of seats, but at least not empty like the previous restaurant.

So I went to a restaurant where I knew I could get served without a reservation.

 

Mr. Gyro. The food was -- how should I put it? -- better than awful.

After eating, I walked back to the hotel, past many restaurants none of which were even half full. I suspect in each case, I would have been denied entrance for lack of a reservation. Because those are the rules. After two weeks of being in countries were the locals were bending over backwards and contorting themselves into pretzels (figuratively) (not literally) (who's that limber?) to be helpful and accommodating, this "You Can't" attitude is a bit jarring.

 

But at least the city of Yerevan is beautiful, whether in sunlight or lit up after dark.

Footnote *: One concerning moment in the check-in line at Tbilisi Airport to get my flight to Yerevan. The guy behind me in line looked exactly like the point/counterpoint guy from the movie "Airplane": Shana. They bought their tickets. They knew what they were getting into. I say: "Let 'em crash."