A Religious Revelation at the Thorvaldsens

Thorvaldsens's Ganymedes and Jupiter

Breaking up the walking tour was a trip into the Thorvaldsens Museum, which I did eventually find.  And yes I did have a religious revelation there, but this religious revelation is safe for Christians, atheists, agnostics and alternative faith traditions alike.

This is a museum housing the work of noted neoclassical Danish scuplture Bertel Thorvaldsen.  He worked during the height of the neoclassical era, 1796 to 1838.  His works are displayed throughout Europe.

Below is a tour of the museum's photographable collection.  The clean works are marble;  the "dirty" ones are aging plaster.  I use "dirty" in the sense of stained and discolored, even though the Roman gods and goddesses he sculpted were enamored of clothing.  So I guess it could be "dirty" in the prurient sense, too but that's not what I'm saying.

That is one of the most bored looking Mercurys I have ever seen.  The Scandinavian ennui weights heavily on him.

This is Ganymedes pouring the cup of immorality that is given to those who earn god-like status in Roman methodology.  Hmmm.  Drinking from the cup to achieve eternal life.  Yes, that does echo in Christian theology, but that's not the religious revelation that I am referencing.

This is Mars and his kid, Cupid.

This is one of Thorvaldens's more reknowned works, notable for the juxtaposition of Mars's sword in the hands of the Love God, and Cupid's dinky little arrow in the giant paws of the War God.  Here's a side view.

And here's the same statue, in plaster.

The plasters were molds from bronze castings.

Cupid and Psyche.  Looking like two drunk kids.  Captured right before Psyche drinks the cup to achieve eternal life.  Ooops.  I mean immortality, since I'm working the Roman mythology side and not in Christian theology.

Speaking of Christian theology.  So what was the religious revelation?

I give you:  Thorvaldsen's iconic Christ.  Th.  Thorvaldsen's iconic is is probably his signature work.  And it was so reknowned in its day that it changed the very way that Christ was presented in art.

So I think this answers the mystery of why so many artistic renderings depict the clearly semitic Jesus with Northern European features.  I think the answer is Thorvaldsen.  Him and his Nordic Christ.  There.  That wasn't so painful of a religious revelation, now was it?

I'm not an art historian, not even on an amateur basis, so this could be bunk.  But I need evidence to the contrary to recant this position.

Thorvaldsen's Christ is deep in the museum.

Apostles to his left.

Apostles to his right.

And Peter in right, closest to the Christ.

Morning Walk Through Charming Copenhagen

Hans Christian Andersen glances over his shoulder at Tivoli Gardens

One of the most perplexing questions about religious iconography was answered for me this morning.  At the Thorvaldsens Museum.  But, first, a walking tour of Charming Copenhagen.

I had a free morning and afternoon plans, so I took a modest walk around the southwestern corner of Copenhagen Centrum.  This meant walking past the Central Station and crossing over to the "right" side of the tracks

Central Station is lousy with bicycles on all sides

Right next to Central Station is the world famous amusement park, Tivoli Gardens.  This is not an entrance, but a few of the rides are visible.

So close to Tivoli Gardens

Tivoli Gardens is an amusement park.  It is not a theme park.  It takes up a very large city block.  Not a whole city.  We used to have these in the States, before the rise of the theme park tourist vacation destination,  (Am I the only one who remembers Cascade near New Castle?)  Maybe I'll make it in.  But not yet.  I'm on walking tour.

The back door to Tivoli

This is a back entrance to Tivoli Gardens.  The blue on the road are the bike lanes.  Man are there bike lanes here.  This is a rare picture of a bike lane not swarming with bicycles so thick you cannot even see the blue pavement.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

This is the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, a modern art museum built by the Carlsberg brewing family,  While it is the leading modern art museum in Copenhagen, it interestingly is not the leading modern art museum in Denmark.  That would be the Louisiana (very Danish name that would be), about a half hour north of Copenhagen.  I currently in the process of deciding between heading north to the Lousiana, or heading west to the town of Roskilde, with its famous Viking boat museum, for tomorrow's adventure.  Which shall I choose?  Tune in tomorrow.  Same Bat Channel.

Frederiksholms Kanal

From there I crossed over the Frederiksholms Kanal.  There is a lot of water in the capital city of the seafaring Danes. There are a lot of boats in Copenhagen.  More boats than people.  But not more boats than bicycles!  The contest is not even close.

Crossing the Frederiksholms Kanal

I'm heading for the Thorvaldsens Museum.  The above picture shows two excellent examples of the most distinctive feature of Copenhagen architecture:  ornate spires atop various buildings, usually (but not exclusively) churches and palaces.  I cannot yet identify the spire to the left, but the one on the right is atop Christiansborg Palace.  So while I'm trying to find the Thorvaldsen, let's have a look-see at the exterior of Christiansborg Palace.

Narrow walkway to Christiansborg Palace

There was a tour group outside.

Outside the Palace

This is one of the lesser palaces for the Danish royals.

Main door

I could knock on the door of the Palace.  But they would not let me in.  Unless I paid the admission charge,  So let's try another door, shall we?

Front entrance with a statue of a King Frederik

That's one of Denmark's many King Frederiks astride a horse.

Stock exchange building (Børsen)

Just below Christiansborg Palace is the Børsen, the Danish stock exchange building, which is topped off by one the more interesting spires I saw in town.  This one is a twistie.

The view from across København Havnebade

I did eventually find the Thovaldsens Museum.  But I'm going to save that for another post.  This one is getting long.  So I'm going to take it home with a walk along the København Havnebade and up to City Hall.

The Royal Library, a.k.a. "The Black Diamond"

Just to the left of the bus in this picture, the building that looks like it's askew, is the Royal Library, a.k.a. "The Black Diamond."  It is an ugly, narcissistic, too-precious post-modernist scar on an otherwise beautiful Copenhagen cityscape.  If I thought about it,

Mermaid

As I approach Soren Kierkegaards Plads, I see this statue.  Of a mermaid.  And she's little.  But but but ... this is NOT the world-famous Little Mermaid Statue.  She's dozens of blocks farther east.

A boat traversing the København Havnebade

It's time for my first selfie of the trip.

Denmark Selfie #1

I look grim.  Chin up, young man.  You're in charming Copenhagen.  Or, should I say, "Chins up."

An entrance to Tivoli Gardens

And what's this I spy?  It's as if Tivoli Gardens is beckoning me.

Typical street scene, as it is bicycles. Lots and lots of bicycles.

But I don't have time for such frivolities.  I have afternoon plans and I need a shower.  By the way, the brick building is Copenhagen City Hall.

Hans Christian Andersen.  In statue form.

But I do have time for some frivolities.  Such as photographing the world famous Hans Christian Andersen statue outside of City Hall.

Fountain outside Copenhagen City Hall

And, of course I have time for this frivolity.  It's a fountain-statue of a sea serpent devouring a bull.  Or maybe not.

Entrance to Copenhagen City Hall

But definitely no time for investigating why those two gentlemen leaving City Hall were wearing identical bright blue suits.

Main entrance to Tivoli Gardens

And Tivoli Gardens will have to wait.