Final Day in Georgia (This Trip)

Starting the day with some communist art in the heart of Kutaisi

Today will conclude the Georgia portion of this vacation. I will catch a flight to the final stop on this trip early tomorrow morning.

The sun was shining so, before breakfast and before the drive back to Tbilisi, I decided to do some shutterbugging in Kutaisi.

Where I soon saw a street dog tree a cat.

I heard the dogs bark and a cat scream and run and, then, I saw the cat up in the tree, right at that first branch coming off the trunk.

There was not much car traffic, and no bus traffic, at this morning hour, so I was able to take some unobstructed photos sans automobiles of Colchis Fountain in the heart of Kutaisi.

I also was able to take an unobstructed photo of the gateway entrance into Kutaisi Park:

Some fellow tourists had the same idea that this was a great hour for some tourist photography.

There was something on the map called the "Soviet Sculpture Complex" nearby that I had not yet checked out. Well, as Elvis once said/sang: It's now or never. I chose "now."

I may hate communism, but I am fascinated by Socialist Realism art. The display was small, but it was quite communist in tone.

Socialist man, looking socialist.

The reviews mention that these sculptures are poorly maintained and vandalized. I didn't really notice that, except for one point in the back corner that seemed to be missing a statue. It looked decently well-maintained to me, although it was missing any explanatory notes.

All in all, I thought it was nicely maintained when you consider that there is absolutely no nostalgia for the Soviet era anywhere in Georgia, except maybe for some clueless tourists at the Stalin Museum in Gori.

That is the respected (within Georgia) poet Akaki Tsereteli. He died in 1915, so he was fortunate not to see the Bolshevik takeover of Georgia. The Soviet conquest of what had been an independent republic after the fall of czar resulted in a massive slaughter of artists and poets, as well as politicians, religious figures, and the community elite. Just finishing up the communist detour here.

It was time to get back to the hotel to eat breakfast, shower, and pack for the drive back to Tbilisi. With a few stops along the way.

The first stop was Samtavro. This is a historic (but still in use) convent in Mtskheta. I visited Mksheta on Wednesday, but not the Samtavro convent.

I did visit Jvari Monastery high atop that hill, however, on Wednesday.

There was a nice crowd there.

The buildings of Samtavro originally were built in the fourth century, which would before Christianity came to Georgia. It was reconstructed as church property in the 11th Century.

I was dressed in shorts and a polo, so I could not go inside initially. The polo was acceptable, but not the shorts. But then one of the priests gave me permission to enter as long as I got some fabric to cover my bare knees. I had mentioned the Serbian Orthodox church that has been under construction in Las Vegas for maybe a decade and a half, and was being built in the traditional style. The priest was actually familiar with that church, although he definitely had not traveled to Las Vegas.

So, after getting wrapped in fabric, I was able to enter. The interior was beautiful, but no photography was allowed inside. Not even without a flash. One of the major focal points of the church is the tomb of Saint Gabriel, a monk who died in 1995. His tomb is a major pilgrimage site.

And so it was time to leave Samtrovo to head for Tbilisi.

The final stop of the tour was a site I had visited before going to Kutaisi: the Chronicles of Georgia. I was very happy to return here because this time I had a guide who would be able to explain some of the iconography involving the history of Georgia and the history of Georgian Orthodox church that were lost on me when I walked among the giant pillars with no guide.

For example, I did not need an explanation for this:

It's a Biblical scene. Adam naming the animals. If you know the Georgian language and alphabet, you would know that the word "Adam" appears in the upper corner.

However, my guide was able to tell me that this column is of King David the Builder, who earned his name by building much of Georgia, both in the sense of building buildings and building a Georgian culture.

This, a bit covered in shadows because the sun decided to go into hiding, is the only woman "king" of Georgia.

Tamar. She reigned from 1184 to 1213. She earned her place in the Chronicles of Georgia.

Here I am in front of one of my favorite scenes. Jesus walking on the water and, more importantly, Peter being unable to do so.

Again, I find the imagery comforting. Peter was a weak man whose faith was not continuously strong. Not only did he deny Christ three times on the night preceding the crucifixion, but he also showed a weakness of faith when Christ invited him to walk toward him -- on the water -- and Peter soon realized that he could not do so so he began to sink into the waters.

And how do I honor this?

With a sacrilegious reenactment.

One final pose standing tall in the midst of the Chronicles of Georgia.

And that will end the Georgia part of this vacation. One week in this country and it was not enough. Beautiful scenery. Great architecture. Delicious food. And, most importantly, so many of the warmest, most welcoming people I have met anywhere in all of my travels.

Exploring the Area Around Kutaisi, Georgia

Just a small part of the over-the-top Colchis Fountain in Kutaisi, Georgia

No time to rest when you are a tourist visiting a new country on the other side of world.

I'm staying at the centrally-located Newport Hotel for my two nights in Kutaisi.

It is generally a quiet low-key area despite being close to the city center.

The only problem is trying to cross the street.  Other than that, church mouse quiet.

My touring of the Kutaisi is with the same driver, and his translator daughter, that gave me the tour yesterday from Tbilisi to Kutaisi. And will be for tomorrow for the drive from Kutaisi back to Tbilisi. They have family property nearby so they are constantly shuttling between Tbilisi and Kutaisi for needy me. They also have been excellent tour guides, hosts, and general ambassadors to the beautiful and welcoming country.

The first stop of the day was at Martvili Canyon, west of the city of Kutaisi. The above is a small waterfall to whet your appetite -- or should I say "wet" your appetite -- for the bigger waterfall to come.

Martvili Canyon is a recreation area, with boating (but not today) (no boats were running because of the expected rain) (boats don't like water apparently), swimming, hiking, and the general soaking in of the nature.

The bridge was sturdy enough.

This is the main attraction of Martvili Canyon, as far as its waterfalls go:

This is the Abhesi Waterfall. It flows into the Abhesi River. It was at this point that it started raining hard. Who'd have thunk you'd get wet standing near a waterfall?

This was the only time of the day that the rain was coming down hard enough to mess up my eyeglasses. It let up as soon as we got away from the waterfall.

The land around Martvili Canyon is owned and occupied by just three families. They do not want to sell out to the moneyed interests who would like to develop this into something "tourist friendly." It's family land and the purpose of family land is family, not tourism.

 

Since there was a bridge there, that must mean water below.  And, sure enough:

With the rain, the Abhesi River was flowing fast.

But not as fast as when we got to this part of the park:

This is the part where the river goes under the main road.

I did not walk down there because the "path" -- such as it was -- looked steep and slippery:

Others did not share my assessment.

So, instead, the driver who was driving us within Martvili Canyon pointed out a great viewpoint just a short path off the main road. Against my better judgment, I walked down to the viewpoint:

Who am I kidding? I do not have "better judgment" when I travel. I have "this could be my only chance to see this" judgment. So I climbed the steep wet "path" -- barely when worthy of scare quotes it was that sort of "path" -- and was treated to a spectacular view, all alone by myself.

All alone. So if I can't get out, I'm stuck here for eternity. My body never to be found. Just a vague reference to "tourist missing in Martvili Canyon."

Last known photo:

I look like I am breathing in the glorious fresh smell of nature.

Time to ascend back to the main road. I was grabbing onto everything rock that even slightly up higher than the path-bed. But I made it out. That whole "last known photo" thing was hyperbole.

The next stop was Gelati Monastery.

Google was screaming at my Georgian driver -- in Russian apparently for some reason -- that the Gelati Monastery was closed for major renovations. We decided to go anyway hoping to get a few pictures.

The good news was that it was only sort-of closed.

And the grounds were open.

This is one of the building of the monastery complex. You can see the main monastery building wrapped in white plastic on the right side of the picture, undergoing very, very extensive renovation.

The monastery dates back to the 1200's, so the fact that it needed a little facelift was understandable. But why did it have to happen when I was in Georgia? Why? Why me? Actually, in all truthfulness. given how everything has just fallen into place for me on this trip somewhat magically, I cannot complain at all about anything. This just means I'm going to have to return someday (in a year or so) when the renovation work is scheduled to be completed. 

You could at least a little look-see into some of the building undergoing renovation.

And, clearly, the interior space is undergoing renovation.

The side buildings were quite available for photographing.

This is the burial spot for a king.

It is, however, not the burial spot for THE king. The King is King David the Builder, the Georgian King who built the Gelati Monastery among other things. This is a less extraordinary king. I believe King David the Builder is buried inside the main monastery building that is undergoing extensive renovation, but don't quote me on that. I could be wrong. Everything else here is absolute 100 percent unvarnished truth. (Please explain why "unvarnished truth" is so much better than truth that has received a coat of varnish? We prefer furniture that has been varnished, yet we want our truth "unvarnished." I do not understand the language I have been speaking all of my life.)

Speaking of me, as I am wont to do.

Artsily-framed photo incoming:

The massive renovation project is clearly visible on the right.  But it is clearly visible right, left, and center in this photo:

The entire 800-plus year-old monastery wrapped in white plastic like a Christo art installation. Only better than a Christo, since this wrapping has a purpose.

This is the king's meeting hall.

The kings of Georgia were not regularly housed at the Gelati Monastery, but sometimes they needed to shimmy up the hill for a visit. Usually when the lowlands were under siege. Which was not infrequent.

Even though the main monastery building is under renovation, you could poke your head in for look at a small amount of the inside territory:

So let's go in.

Scaffolding and supports everywhere.

But the devotional candles still burn.

Given the fact that the property was developed more than 800 years ago, it is no surprised some of the space is in ruins.

This once was something. Now it's just stone foundational walls supporting nothing.

The bell tower is not in ruins.

Once last photo of me:

And with this it is time to move on from Gelati Monastery:

The next stop was closer to the center of Kutaisi: the Bagrati Cathedral.

This being a Saturday, this was not the best day to visit Bagrati Cathedral.

Saturday is wedding day. Multiple wedding parties were lined up for their time to have their marriage consecrated in the holy cathedral which, I am sure, was even busier because of the beautiful Gelati Monastery being closed for renovation.

The grounds were crowded with a mix of wedding parties and general tourism tourists.

Even this cathedral has some ruinization:

An Orthodox Cross overlooking the City of Kutaisi.

There was traditional Georgian music happening on the grounds. Maybe because of the wedding atmosphere. Maybe because who doesn't want traditional Georgian music on a Saturday.

Time for a quick look inside the cathedral for all the wedding happenings:

I only felt slightly guilty about photographing what is a religious ceremony, but then I noticed all the wedding photography taking place, whether by professional wedding photographers or whether by amateur family members and guests.

So snap away I did, if only briefly.

 

And I did take some photos of the religious iconography inside.

The next wedding party was all queued up for their consecration, so it was time to move on.

Back to the hotel for me to walk around the City of Kutaisi, at least for a little bit.

The star attraction of Kutaisi proper, from a tourist photography standpoint, is the giant, extravagant, lavish Colchis Fountain:

I love it. Many photos taken. Only some posted.

And here's one with the Colchis Fountain with a giant McDonald's behind it.

Because why not?

Behind the fountain is the aptly named Kutaisi Park.

Let's walk through the gate and have a look.

The park is known for the statue of the Sisters Ishkhneli:

Captures in perpetuity in mid song.

It's a nice little park, but it's after 5:00 o'clock and I have not eaten a bite since the morning breakfast buffet at the hotel.

I decided to eat at a traditional Georgian restaurant.

I am not being sarcastic. I am not being facetious. The name of the traditional Georgian restaurant is the El Paso.

Quick point about dining out in Georgia. There seem to be two types of restaurants in Georgia. Georgian cuisine. American fast food. Wendy's seems to the most popular, followed by McDonald's, followed by nothing else. Unless you want to count the extremely popular Dunkin' Donuts as fast food. There doesn't appear to be any of the other U.S. fast food chains. Not even a KFC. Moreover, there doesn't appear to be restaurants of other cuisines. I think I saw one Indian restaurant and one Thai restaurant in Tbilisi. No Chinese takeout. No Japanese sushi. No German biergartens. Georgian and American fast food. That's it. I chose "Georgian."

Keeping with that theme, I had a Georgian beer. The Georgian wines did not seem to be offered by the glass at the Old El Paso.

I ordered the khachapuri, traditional style, with a single raw egg floating in an ocean of cheese in a bread bowl.

If you enjoyed sunny-side up eggs and you like to sop up the egg yolk with your toast -- and you thought that this would be even more delicious if there were a lot of cheese in there -- then khachapuri is the dish that was designed with you in mind.

I also had the khinkali because this is my last night getting to dine out at a choice of restaurants in Georgia.

Tomorrow night I will sleep in airport hotel because of an early morning flight to my third and final country of this trip.

After a very filling meal of two entrees -- all for the low low price of 29 GEL -- which is ten bucks -- for a supper with two entrees and a beer -- Georgia is quite affordable -- I went back to my hotel. I walked out on the balcony. I thought the view was kind of drab, since I could only see a narrow slot of scenery. Then I got to see the full view.

My balcony has a view of the Bagrati Cathedral. Awe. Some.