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Thursday, May 6, was Day 9 of this trip. And I just realized that I have been in transit for seven of the nine days. This has been a road trip, whether by plane, van, car, or, now, train. I've seen a lot of territory. I've met a lot of people. And I think I've learned a lot about Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia. But I'm ready for a few days of stay-put.
First, of all about the train:
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We hear stories in the states about the marvels of European rail travel. Bullet trains and other high speed rail barreling through the countryside at a couple hundred miles an hour. Maybe in Old Europe, but not in the countries once behind the iron curtain. It was a seven-hour train trip Zagreb to Budapest. By car, it would be three. By air, it would be even faster, but obscenely expensive ($370 versus a $50 train ticket -- no-brainer territory even if I wasn't a cheapskate.) And, you know how Europeans supposedly love to travel by train? There was hardly anyone taking the 15:45 to Budapest.
One last look at Zagreb:
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This will conclude the Croatia portion of our programming. From here on out, it will be all Budapest, all Hungary. I loved my first visit to Croatia, but here's a travel tip and you don't even need to buy a travel book for it. You know how back during the Dubrovnik posts I marveled at how much Croatia looked like California? It's a lot like California in another respect: The closer you are to the coast, the better the time you will have.
Next Croatia trip I will definitely hit Plitvice Lakes, which is inland. It's the one place that everyone I've talked to -- and I mean the English-speaking locals -- when I tell them this was my first visit, they all asked if I went to, or was going to go to, Plitvice. That tells me I made a tactical error in skipping that site. But other than that, the next time I am in Croatia -- and I do hope there's a next time -- I'm hugging the coast.
Zagreb's not a bad place. But one morning is all the Zagreb I will ever need. But even little rocky/brown Pag: one day was not enough. Istria, Zadar, Split, the islands of the Kvarner, the islands of Southern Dalmatia: all would be worth a visit.
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