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Friday, October 16, 2026

The Basilica of Saint John and the Ayasuluk Citadel in Ruins

Entering the ruins of the Basilica of Saint John through the Gate of Persecution

My day is in ruins. Literally, I spent the tourism part of my day walking from ruins to ruins to ruins. The day's final ruins are the Basilica of Saint John and the Ayasuluk Citadel (which are barely-ruined ruins) that towers over the ruins of the Basilica.


There was a large school group entering same time as I was, so I turned in the opposite direction from where they were heading. So I went left instead of straight into the Basilica ruins.



There was an excellent view of the Isa Bey Mosque:


But I was here for the Basilica ruins.


And here I am.


Let's pass through the doorways and enter the Basilica proper:


After a instagram-worthy photo:


The Basilica was built in the 500's by Roman Emperor Justinian.


I think that, by that point, the Roman Empire has split into eastern and western halves, with the Rome-based West under constant threats from various Goths and continually being plundered, and with the Constantinople-based East being relatively stable and prosperous and motoring along as if the Visigoths and Ostrogoths had never left Germany.


The Apostle Saint John was reputed to have been buried here. It is known that, after the crucifixion and the resurrection -- real historic events sorry to break the news to you -- the Apostle John came to Ephesus. Jesus had entrusted John, his favorite among the apostles, to care for his mother Mary and is believed to have brought Mary with him to Ephesus to live out her remaining days. When I say that the Apostle "was reputed to have been buried" under the dome of the Basilica, when they opened the tomb many years later, the tomb was empty. Lots of explanations for this, some of which satisfy believers and some of which would satisfy non-believers. But the truth is this: we don't know. And those who would know have been dead for centuries.



From the Basilica you can keep walking up hill to the Ayasuluk Citadel.


It towers over the ruins of the Basilica:


It is something of a contemporary of the Basilica, as both date back to the 500's A.D.


The Citadel, however, survived the ravages and savages and cabbages of time much, much better,


Although it too still is in a state of ruins.


Just less ruined ruins,



And speaking of being in ruins:


My feet and legs are in ruins after a full day of ascending and descending up and down on extremely uneven stones to see these spectacular ruins. It is time for an afternoon nap.

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