Sunny Morning in Zadar

Bridge connecting Old Zadar with modern Zadar

It was a beautiful morning for our last day in Croatia. That meant we could enjoy Old Town Zadar with at least some sun. We did not have to be at our next destination of Ljubljana, Slovenia, at any particular time, so we were in no hurry to exit Croatia.

So on a nice somewhat occasionally sunny morning in Zadar, what do you do? Head to Museum of Ancient Glass to see glass-making!

Outside the Museum of Ancient Glass

Glass jewelry maker Antonija Gospic made a housecall to the Hotel Bastion that morning to sell C**** P******* some artsy-funky glass bead rings. Ms. Gospic is in residence at the Museum and we were intrigued enough to want a demonstration. So off we trudged. It was well worth it. (Her website is on etsy.com, where all sorts of artists sell all sorts of things, so check out her virtual "store" if you are even remotely interested. She seems like good people.)

Antonija Gospic works the flame 

Then she blows the glass bubble

She only makes glass beads because, she said, her flame is not hot enough for larger pieces. To see that, we would have to go the third floor of the museum,

The glass bubble fresh from the kiln

The pitcher he is making begins to take shape

To make a vase or pitcher from glass, the level of heat was much much hotter than that necessary for the glass bead work.

After the demonstrations, we toured the collection.

More ancient glass artifacts than I've ever seen in one place 

Green glass receptacle 

Ancient glass pot and a photo of an archaeological dig.
(The pot did not necessarily come from that dig. Could have. But don't think it did.)

I learned that glass is the oldest "manufactured" material and it was first made in the B.C. era. It was prized for the fact that it was non-reactive. What was stored inside the glass receptacle did not react with the receptacle. Earlier pieces were functional, but beauty later became valued:

I like these

We then took a last walk around the city.

Entering from the ferry docks

The tourist hordes were arriving. But the market was happening for the locals.

It smelled nice in here. Better than my local supermarket. Where the produce section doesn't smell like anything at all.

We walked down to the riva.

Zadar riva 

Statue on the riva

At the south end of the riva, near the fosa

I did notice these steps leading into the Adriatic. These are for the swimmers, as people really do swim in the Adriatic Sea here.

Steps leading into the Adriatic

Then of course it was time to follow the crowd for one last look at the Greeting of the Sun and one last listen to the Sea Organ.

On the riva, walking toward the mellifluous Sea Organ

It was crowded. It was a tourist day,

This must be the view of the symbolic "Sun" from the Planet Jupiter 

Sister and B-I-L shooting photos of the scene

Then it was back into the city blocks of the Old Town for a gelato.

The narrow streets of Old Zadar

Yes, I should be tied to the Pillar of Shame for having yet another gelato.

Pillar of shame

We had to dodge truck traffic on the pedestrian-only streets to get to that gelato store where they had the mountains of gelato on display.

Fighting truck traffic to get to the place with the mountains of gelato on display

Incidentally, I got the blood orange flavor, which I've only had as a sorbet before, It's better as a gelato/ice cream. But it's still not as good as the cantaloupe flavor from the day before.

One last photo of the signature picture of Zadar.

The churches of St. Donatus (L) and St. Anastasia (R)

Then it was time to head for the izlaz (Croatian for exit).

Exiting Old Zadar by way of Our Lady of Health church

Zadar at Night

Me, dancing on the "Greeting of the Sun" at Zadar's waterfront

The hard and heavy rains did let up in the evening. So we talked the Old Town in search of a restaurant.

St Anastasia church tower at night

The most impressive mountains of gelato we've seen in Croatia

Southeast end of the Siroka ulica

We settled on the Pet Bunara:

We could not go inside. We had to eat outside

The Pet Bunara says that it seeves food that is local, seasonal and organic. Mmmm. I know. Really sounds like my bag. Actually, it was awesome ...

This veal calf did not die in vain. Neither did the potatoes.

I had the veal stuffed with ricotta cheese from nearby Pag Island, served with potatoes and mushrooms. Delicious.

We had to wait for a table because the joint was packed. So when you are in Zadar, make reservations and save yourself the wait for the table we had,

After a long, leisurely supper, we checked out the most prominent Zadar tourist attraction, the Sea Organ and the Greeting of the Sun.

Jadrolinija ferry, the government-operated Croatian monopoly ferry line, parked next to our hotel

We did not have to take a ferry, for it was a short walk to the Sea Organ and Greeting of the Sun. The Sea Organ is a musical organ, powered by the wave action of the Adriatic Sea. There are similar "organs" in Blackpool, England, and in San Francisco, but the Sea Organ is awesome. It is surprisingly melodic. This Youtube clip will give you an idea of the sound, since I can't record or post audio files on here.

Adding to the atmosphere is the "Greeting of the Sun." It is a solar-powered light show built into the pavement of Zadar's riva (boardwalk) next to the Sea Organ. The lights flash and change color in time and conjunction with the Sea Organ. It is beautiful.

Greeting of the Sun with the lights of the city in the background

Close-up of light panel

Me

It was only a short walk from there back to the Hotel Bastion.